M. Well's

The Meat: 60% beef, 40% lamb (a custom blend from Pat LaFrieda)

The Cheese: None

The Bun: Rustic roll

Flip Tip: Several: The fries are very worth the extra $$$. Put your name down for a table, and pass the (exorbitant) waiting time strolling down Long Island City’s Vernon Boulevard or at nearby PS1. Finally, make sure that M. Well's is indeed open when you plan to go, as their schedule is a bit ... limited.

I dare say that the burger at M. Wells is life changing. Unlike the burgers at Burger Joint, the Palm, or Veselka, this burger is distinctly gourmet. The ketchup (which comes from First Field in New Jersey) has a spicy kick to it. Both sweet, the pickles are soft, whereas the grilled onions crunch. Finally, and most importantly, the meat is salty and rich.

Each bite is full of contrasts (fascinations), and the bun serves its proper purpose, as an edible plate.

M. Well’s is moving out of its current location at the end of the month, and we heard today that the management intends to have the restaurant re-settled by the end of the year. Let’s cross our fingers that this is a quick transition; I don’t know how long I can live without my new favorite burger.

A Really Nice Bathroom Door?

The Meat: Master Purveyors
The Cheese: Gruyère

The Bun: Onion gruyère

This burger had all the makings of greatness: a thick, juicy patty, crinkle-cut pickle chips, a healthy dose of gruyère (always a Big Burger favorite), all served on a tantalizing onion and gruyère roll. But, as often happens with great (gruyère!) anticipation, Landmarc served up disappointment, medium rare. Though juicy, the meat was eclipsed by the tangy, unpleasant flavor of not-fully-melted cheese, and the bun, though full of potential, was surprisingly stale and flavorless. For the price and reputation, one would expect excellent service, cutting edge décor (the bathroom door, a giant airframe-like hunk of metal, was quite cool), and a perfectly executed burger, but this was far from the case. Apparently Landmarc's classically-trained French chefs missed the Kraft-single-in-microwave seminar in second grade.